Making Your Own Lotions, Creams and Salves- Part 1

Shelf life is one of the biggest problems one faces when making homemade cosmetic products. They tend to spoil after time and have to be made more often. This is just a small inconvenience when you have the knowledge of knowing that the best ingredients are being used.

To overcome having to throw out spoiled products, just make enough to last until you have to make another batch. Another key point to remember is not to use your bare fingers to mix ingredients as this can contaminate the batch when there are no chemical preservatives being used. Instead use a small plastic knife or spatula or a clean applicator to remove small amounts of the product you are going to apply.

By themselves, oils and waxes will remain stable. It is the introduction of the herbal infusion, or aloe gel, or unsterilized water that presents the problem of mold and bacteria. It is also possible to make or purchase extracts of the herbs you wish to include and use those in your products, rather than an infusion.

Remember to use boiling water to sterilize glass containers. For plastic type containers, use alcohol for sterilizing.

There are two natural preservatives which can stabilize your homemade product. Tincture of Benzoin can be found at the local pharmacy and has been used commercially for a long time.

It is applied at the rate of 1 drop per ounce of product. Becoming more popular each year is grapefruit seed extract, available through herbal supply shops, and is applied at the same rate.

Vitamin E also has preservative qualities. It's not as effective as benzoin tincture or grapefruit seed extract, but 200 to 400 I.U. per ounce will not only help out with longevity, it's also great for the skin.

If you are going to use aloe in your products, use food grade aloe. Fresh aloe straight from the houseplant will quickly develop mold. Food grade aloe has already been stabilized.

If the recipe calls for glycerin, it always means food grade vegetable glycerin. At no time should you use any other type.

The oil from sweet almond, safflower, olive, corn, peanut, wheat germ, jojoba and small amounts of vitamin E oil, are oils most commonly used in making home cosmetics. In the recipes to follow, the ingredient lecithin refers to the liquid type. When lanolin is used it will be the anhydrous lanolin.

One other ingredient you will need is beeswax. Beeswax melts at 148ºF, and melts more quickly if you first grate it up. A hand held rotary grater with the large holes for grating makes grating much faster.

A few other utensils/tools which you will need are a blender, or similar item which is capable of making mayonnaise, since the process of combining oils and water is similar. You will also need a stainless steel or enamel double boiler. It is absolutely essential to melt the waxes and oils in the top portion of the double boiler over hot water in the bottom pan.

Glycerin & Rosewater Lotion:

Long known for its soothing properties, this is the easiest of the skin lotions to prepare. For a small trial size, combine one ounce of rosewater with one ounce of vegetable glycerin. A 2-oz flip-top bottle makes an excellent handy dispenser.

Hot Weather Spritz:

In a small spritzer bottle, mix 1 cup of distilled water plus 3-5 drops of essential oil of lavender. Keep mixture refrigerated and spritz on skin to cool off when needed. This is especially nice during hot weather trips. A man might prefer the spicy scent of oil of coriander, while lemon tends to be gender neutral.

Lavender water or orange water or other floral water can be purchased for this use, but essential oil and distilled water is cheaper.

Masks:

Ingredients: powdered oatmeal and powdered almond

Both of these powders can be made at home by grinding oatmeal or almonds in a coffee grinder. One other ingredient that can be used is plain yogurt. It makes a refreshing mask when combined with oatmeal and a little lemon juice. Brewer's yeast can also be used.

To make:

Add distilled water, a few drops at a time, to a tablespoon or two of the oatmeal or almond powder until you have a paste. Apply paste on your face, avoiding the eye area, then allow the mask to dry. When ready, use a washcloth and water that is as warm as you can tolerate and place the cloth over your face for a few minutes to soften the mask. Then wash your face clean with warm water and follow with a cool water splash.

You can also use floral waters such as lavender, rose, or orange to make the paste, or you could use honey. Honey and oatmeal masks were often used in the older days. A mask should be applied once a week to revive the skin by getting rid of the dead skin cells.

Creams:

Step One: Melt the waxes, fats, liquid lecithin, cocoa butter, and honey in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Watch that the mixture gets only warm enough to melt the contents. Beeswax should be grated for easiest melting. Make sure all is blended well and then remove from heat. Allow to cool for about a minute. Add the vitamin E if it is used.

Step Two: In a mixer bowl or blender, add the water, glycerin and herb extract, the tincture of benzoin or grapefruit seed extract, and a few drops of essential oil.

Step Three: While blender or mixer is operating, slowly add the melted oils and waxes into the water mixture. It will begin to thicken. The longer the blending, the fluffier it will become. It will appear to be a little loose at this point, but will continue to harden as it comes to room temperature. Pour into a suitable jar and allow to sit on the counter for 20 to 30 minutes, then cap and store in the refrigerator.

Face and Body Cream:

1/3 cup coconut oil
1/8 cup sweet almond oil
1/8 cup vegetable glycerin
2/3 cup rosewater (or sterile water)
1 tbsp liquid lecithin
1/4 oz. grated beeswax
9 drops tincture of benzoin

Follow directions as given in Procedure above. Shelf life is about one month.

Charles

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Homemade Salves

The herbs used here are those which have been successfully used down through the centuries for their skin healing benefits. Three of these are calendula, comfrey (not for internal use), and chickweed.

Salves are useful for dry, chapped and work-worn skin.

Making a salve takes a little bit longer than making creams, but is somewhat easier. The difference is that the herbs for salve are steeped directly in the oil and the recipes contain no water. The shelf life of salve is a lot longer as well.

Steps for Making Salve:

Equipment-

Electric skillet

The top of a double boiler pan (or a pyrex bowl)

Cooking thermometer

A suitably sized jar to hold the salve

Wide-mouth 4-oz canning jars are particularly suitable and can be easily sterilized.

Step 1: Powder the herbs in a blender or coffee mill.

Step 2: Combine the oils and herbs in the double boiler or bowl.

Step 3: Place 3/4 inch of water in the bottom of the electric skillet to protect its finish. Turn the skillet control to where the control light just comes on, then keep raising it little-by-little until the temperature of the water reaches about 100º F.

Step 4: Place the double boiler pan (which hold the herbs and oils) in the center of the skillet and switch the thermometer from the skillet to the inside of the double boiler pan.

Step 5: When you are sure that the temperature of the combined herbs and oils is constant at 95-98 degrees F., allow to remain uncovered for 12 to 14 hours or until the herbs look used up.

Step 6: Strain the herb-oil mixture through muslin or fine cheesecloth and get out as much oil as you can.

After the initial straining, you may wish to do it again in order to remove as many of the herb particles as possible. Do the second straining into a measuring cup and have a salve jar standing by.

Step 7: Take note of the amount of oil you have and pour into your cleaned double boiler pan. (Write it down so you don't forget). Raise the temperature of the skillet so the oil is at 150º F., (Beeswax melts at approximately 148º F).

Step 8: When 150º F has been reached and maintained steadily, add the grated beeswax and vitamin E (if desired). Stir while wax is melting.

Step 9: When wax is completely melted, remove from heat and add 1 drop Tincture of Benzoin (or grapefruit seed extract) for each ounce of liquid you measured. Test the consistency of your product by dripping a couple of drops onto the bottom of the salve jar (or onto a plate).

Allow a minute for it to harden and then test the consistency. If suitable, pour contents into your jar. If it is too loose, add a bit more grated beeswax (a tiny bit at a time). If too firm add a teaspoon of oil. Any more should not be necessary.

In the past, herbs were simmered in lard to make a salve and can still be done that way to cut costs. Some herbalists believe it is still a superior method of delivery to the body.

The usual method is to combine lard and herbs in a large pan in the oven on low heat (about 125º F. for 12 hours). Lard can still be used in the skillet method.

3-C Skin Salve:

1/2 oz. chickweed

1/2 oz. calendula petals

1/2 oz. comfrey leaf

6 oz. sweet almond (or other vegetable oil such as olive)

1/3 oz. grated beeswax

Powder herbs and combine with oil in double boiler. Proceed as per instructions above.

Barrier Salve:

A useful salve for skin which has taken a beating or to protect skin while doing really tough work (like gardening!) This salve is both protective and healing.

3/4 oz. calendula petals

1/4 oz. chickweed

1/2 C. non-petroleum gel

1/2 tbsp sweet almond oil

Powder herbs and combine herbs, gel and oil in top of double boiler. Place double boiler pan in electric skillet and proceed with Steps 3 through 7 for making salve.

Once the mixture has been strained, pour it into a waiting sterile jar.

An alternative method is to proceed exactly according to the salve recipe.

Combine the powdered herbs together with 1/2 cup plus 1/2 Tbsp of oil and allow to simmer for 12 to 14 hours. Strain and return to cleaned double boiler pan with 1/8 oz. grated beeswax. Test for consistency, adjusting if necessary, pour into jar and allow to set up.

Vapor Rub:

This is a homemade version of that old medicine-shelf staple Moms' have used to rub on our chests since time immemorial whenever we had a cold or flu.

Never apply it (either the purchased one or your own homemade one) directly on the skin. Spread some on a clean, soft cloth, fold it over and place it over the chest.

1/2 C. non-petroleum gel

1/2 Tbsp sweet almond or other vegetable oil

1/2 tsp essential oil of Eucalyptus

2 to 3 drops of tea tree oil (optional)

Combine NP-gel and almond oil in top of double boiler. Melt the two ingredients together, blending well, and remove from heat. Blend in the Eucalyptus (and the tea tree oil if using).

Pour into a jar and allow to set up. A small amount for immediate use can be poured out thinly onto a saucer and be ready in a few minutes.

Herbal Oils:

Two of the most useful oils are Calendula oil, for skin care, and St. Johnswort oil, which is used for a number of neurological complaints such as neuralgia, as well as for burns, bruises and sprains.

A third oil with a long history of use for earache is Mullein oil.

To make Calendula or Mullein oil, harvest a handful of Calendula petals or Mullein flowers. Place in a sealable glass jar and cover with olive oil. Cap the jar and allow to sit in the sun for several days or until the herbs look well 'used up'. Strain and bottle being sure to label and date your bottle.

A shortcut method is to use the electric skillet method as described above for infusing herbs in oil (the beeswax is omitted).

St. Johnswort oil is made by harvesting a handful of flowers and placing in a sealable glass jar. Cover with olive oil, cap the jar, and place in the sun until the oil has acquired the characteristic red color of St.Johnswort oil. Strain and bottle and label.

Charles